While many of St Etienne’s ‘concepts’ have left me cold, this one resonates, perhaps because I’ve just read the enchanting coffee-table tome Classic Cafes by Adrian Maddox and Phil Nicholls. Bob Stanley’s sleevenotes similarly eulogise the faded majesty and allure of “caffs”?”‘It’s for lorry drivers,’ said my mum.” As these temples to a bygone age disappear, they exude the melancholy of half-recalled Donovan songs. In homage to these hallowed halls of grease are kitsch gems from The Kinks, Chairmen Of The Board, The Moments and The Sapphires.