Steve Buscemi’s 1996 writing/directing debut, by turns subtly hilarious and desperately sad, is a scruffy, rambling tour of barfly life, wherein his shiftless mechanic becomes an ice cream salesman and romances a much-too-young-for-him Chloe Sevigny. The tagline?”One man’s search for… who knows what”?perfectly captures its loaded small-town shrug. Bruisingly good.